The genius of perfumers is knowing just what they have to do, to blend those into perfectly constructed scents for us to wear. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. But compared tocardamom it is actually easier to handle -like a poodle compared to a bull dog. Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio In a fragrance? (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) WebHousehold products, such as soaps and detergents, perfume products, cosmetics, and other consumer goods, are estimated to use 2,500 different fragrance ingredients. Jo MaloneGrapefruit Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. "There are two different extracts of clary sage: The oil is a bit more aromatic, while the absolute has notes of ambroxan, dried tea leaves, and gives a natural meadow effect., A commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, coumarin is usually derived from the tonka bean (see below), but also found in lavender, sweetgrass, and other plants. These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. Herms Un Jardin Aprs le Mousson Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Thierry Mugler Angel All names for the same plant, with those fabulous yellow pom-pom flowers which look delicate, but fill a room with their dreamy sweetness in minutes. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Herms Terre dHerms (Fennel is of course familiar to most of us as a food but did you know its also used in creating absinthe, the no-longer-banned-but-it-still-makes-you-dance-on-tabletops French alcoholic drink? Voluptuous, so voluptuous. Bella Bellissima Arabian Rose A chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations. Floris Seringa As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. It smells like cinnamon. Escentric Molecules Molecule No. Yardley April Violets, Refreshing, subtly sweet or positively jam-like: blueberry has different facets which perfumers have the power to play up. And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). How did the tangerine get its name? Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Guerlain Myrre et Dlires Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. Belladonna gets its name from the Italian, belle donna (beautiful woman): when consumed in small quantities, it opens the pupils, enhancing a womans attractiveness, and it has a long tradition of use as a medicine, cosmetic, and recreational hallucinogen (in small doses). Byredo Accord Oud Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). Dior Diorissimo Diptyque LEau de Tarocco L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Indian Carnation). ', Chanel Coromandel Laura Mercier Ambre Passion Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. Mandarins zestiness is instantly cheering: sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli and just what perfumers often look for to lift the overture of a scent. Dior Addict So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Guerlain Vetiver Burberry Body A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Loilta Lempicka L de Lolita Dior Dune The first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender. Petit-what? Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Yardley Lily of the Valley. Amouage Gold pour Femme Guerlain Aprs lOnde Thats what legendary nose Jean Kerlo told our Perfume Society co-founder Jo Fairley to close her eyes and think of, when smelling vetiver from a perfumers vial. Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. ', Caron Fleur de Rocaille Ah, sweet violets. Yardley Royal Diamond. Britney Spears Fantasy And expensive, so expensive! (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). By Kilian Love by Kilian Andrea Maack Dark But how does it smell? "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. (Which weve filed under F.) Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Calvin Klein Escape Heres the non-scientific bit: this synthetic brilliantly copies the powdery, almondy or vanilla-y nuanaces of the beautiful purple, butterfly-magnet heliotrope flower (read about that here). The Body Shop Patchouli C13? (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Little darling. Memo Moon Safari Leather in perfumery is not a natural essential oil that you buy. Jo Malone London Red Roses Id use more of it except that citrus fruit essential oils are restricted these days, and I almost always want to get some grapefruit in there too. Heres the science bit: 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. Maybe. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. The most Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka But its aromatic nature really comes out when a distillation of the dried leaves and/or berries (in rum and water) is blended into perfumes (and aftershaves). Lavender works well with scents like patchouli, bergamot, rosemary, and orange Floris China Rose If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. Waxy, grapefruity. Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent Come Tudor times, quilted jackets and caps were stuffed with lavender. Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". Richard E. Grant Jack, It sounds synthetic. Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme There are actually two types, which share the same marigold umbrella name: Calendula officinalis, and Tagetes Glandulifera (the French marigold, a.k.a. LArtisan Parfumeur Patch In recent years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery. Kylie Minogue Music Box Dali Wild It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. Wine was added to those ingredients to make a long-lasting perfume, which was also used to scent gloves known as Frangipani gloves. For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. Givenchy Pi Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, Chances are, though, that the violet in your own perfume and it probably is in your perfume, even if you cant pick it out is synthetic: the chemists Tiemann & Kruger as long ago as 1893 found a way to separate the aroma compounds in violets, which are known as ionones. Its mostly used for its good-enough-to-eat sweetness in gourmand scents - but occasionally by perfumers for extra richness in fragrances from other families. Burberry London Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Davidoff Cool Water It only began to get a bad name during the 16th and 17th Century, with poets and authors among those who fell for opiums narcotic charms. Revlon Charlie Blue. Prada Infusion dIris Chlo LoveChlo Fendi Palazzo Its the rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris which must be left for three to five years to mature. The bark, roots and resin are all still used to create incense for rituals, in Nepal, India and China (including Tibet - and acacia/mimosas used in mainstream perfumery, too: the scent has a warm, honey, iris-like, powdery airiness, which enriches the complexity of fragrances. Its certainly possible to capture the airy sweetness of sweet peas, or Lathyrus odoratus which naturally smell somewhere between orange blossom and hyacinth, with a hint of rose through a process of extraction. As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan Carolina Herrera 212 VIP ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus) was a key ingredient in the kyphi incense blend, used for ceremonial purposes. How well do you know your perfume ingredients? Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. In the past few years, fragrance fashion has looked to the Middle East for inspiration and catered to perfume-lovers there who often own as many as 170 perfumes. Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. (In fact, Hyacinthus ambreis originated in Syria, but its now grown ornamentally all over the world.). Givenchy Very Irresistible It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Guerlain Chant DArome Theyre subtly different, in the hands of perfumers. Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. As perfumerAlienor Massenet explains, 'Amber notes are warm, and can evoke liquor. Equally bewitching. Santa Maria NovellaGinestra (Broom) Officina Profumo. Christian Dior Bois d'Argent Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita The gourmet food world has just discovered marshmallows, with designer marshmallows becoming available. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). 1 "Smells like forest bathing to me.". Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. Este Lauder Beautiful Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Serge Lutens A La Nuit Bees love these intoxicating blooms: when you taste acacia honey, this is the tree whose pollen the bees have dipped into. Davidoff Cool Water Woman Marc Jacobs Daisy, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. The history of this tangy-sweet citrus is surprisingly short: its only been around for 400 years or so, originating in the Caribbean: a natural hybrid between the pomelo and the orange, introduced to Florida in the 1820s. In some cases, the juice of the fruit from the Musa sapientum plant is distilled. And in a fragrance? Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though, Goutal Gardenia-Passion Memo Quartier Latin Eau de Parfum Floris Wedding Bouquet Liz Earle Botanical Essence No. ', Boucheron Boucheron Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Atelier Materi Cacao Porcelana He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. "The aroma of this material is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. Memo Shams But flax has also been used in perfumery as long ago as Egyptian times, as a base note mildly nutty in character. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. Dior JAdore Dior Ulrich Lang Anvers 2. Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Exquisitely exotic, heady, tropical: frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy, sexy. Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood WebAcetoin Agarwood Agave amica Alpha-isomethyl ionone Ambergris Ambrein Ambroxide Aroma compound Artemisia pallens B Balm of Gilead Balsam of Peru Bdellium Benzoin Byredo Pulp The priciest of spices known as red gold saffrons one of the most ancient perfume ingredients: it was popular in Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, often as a single note perfume, as well as in more complex blends. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. (Just like in baking.) Nasomatto Silver Musk It reminds people who know it of the Kir Royal, a celebratory cocktail blending cassis liqueur with champagne," says Benaim. The tangy oil that expressed from the (non-edible) bergamot orange, which is grown primarily in Italy. "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. Jo Malone London Grapefruit Eugenol is the main element in clove essential oil and also found in other plants, including allspice, bay, cinnamon leaf, patchouli and pimento. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir Balmain Ivoire Wonderful, and a reminder how precious peace is.'. Chanel Cristalle Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party (And read here about beeswax, which also makes its way into fragrances.) (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. In aromatherapy, pomelos used for energizing which is exactly what it delivers in a perfume. (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Narciso Rodriguez for Her Half-way between a berry and a rose, wed say this note is. Actually, its a flower closer to the cottage garden pink similar to the variety so loved by British gardeners, and known as clove-pink which is used in perfumery. GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille Revlon Charlie Silver Yves Saint Laurent Y. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Often, a synthetic note of benzyl acetate IS used by perfumers but in reality, benzyl acetate is also found naturally in many flowers, including ylang-ylang, gardenia, hyacinth and jasmine. Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. When perfumers add eugenol to a fragrances construction, we may actually detect a hint of spicy carnation in there. Le Labo Labdanum 18 When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. LArtisan Parfumeur Tubreuse Yves Saint Laurent Y, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. ), Chanel Bois des Iles (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Anyone for Naked Lady? Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Lancme La Vie Est Belle In nature, daisies have a subtle, herbaceous green scent. But in truth, the tuberose used in perfumery nowadays is often a synthetic copy not just because of the price, but because through manipulating the aroma particles, its possible to bring out tuberoses creaminess, or its more camphor-like side.

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